Big tunes by Dunnet's big dunes

The first time I saw the big marquees going up in Dunnet, I wondered what on earth was happening. We live only six miles away, and I wasn’t used to seeing anything quite like that taking shape in the village. They were preparing for the first Tunes by the Dunes in 2019, although COVID arrived the following year and gave the new festival a difficult start. Now I look forward to seeing the canvas go up, even if it usually means watching from the car while I’m on my way somewhere with guests.

People sometimes ask what there is to do up here, as though the absence of Starbucks and an IMAX means we spend the evenings counting sheep. There’s considerably more going on than that, much of it because local people have decided to make something happen. Dunnet Bay Distillery produces Rock Rose gin and Holy Grass vodka, both favourites in our household, and the same people are behind Stannergill at Castletown Mill. Those deserve stories of their own, but a music festival appearing beside Dunnet Bay is another good reason to reconsider what life this far north might be like.

Tunes by the Dunes takes place at Ham Park, a short walk from the beach, with music under canvas and the grass-covered dunes nearby. It’s smaller than Belladrum, but the 2026 programme brought Tide Lines, Trail West, Cammy Barnes and The Tumbling Paddies to Dunnet, so there was plenty of reason to make an evening of it. Having seen some of the rain that can arrive around festival time, I also appreciate the thought that has gone into providing a roof. It’s an over-18s event, and you’ll need to arrange somewhere to stay separately, because there’s no campsite or overnight motorhome parking at the venue.

I’d happily be there with something enjoyable in my glass, but the festival tends to fall when I’m touring, which is why I’ve spent rather more time watching it go up than listening to the bands. If guests wanted to include an evening there, I’d certainly be interested in making that work. For anyone planning a trip north, I’d check the next dates and programme before settling the itinerary, then book accommodation and transport ahead. You can spend the day discovering why people come to Dunnet Bay for the view and the evening enjoying something the people who live here have put on.

To learn more, book one of our North Coast Explorer private tours.