Applecross Walled Garden: More than somewhere to eat

There are two places where I generally take our guests for lunch in Applecross: the Applecross Inn or the Walled Garden. Neither is necessarily better than the other, but they offer very different experiences, so my choice depends upon the interests and preferences of the people travelling with me. The journey to the Walled Garden follows an avenue where we may encounter wild red deer or a fold of Highland cattle before arriving at a modest car park. A sign points towards the garden, we wrestle with a rather awkward sliding wooden gate and pass through a wall that separates us from the world outside.

The garden covers a little over an acre beside Applecross House and probably dates from around the time construction of the house began during the 17th century. It once required six gardeners to provide the Mackenzie laird and his household with fruit, flowers and vegetables, although the workforce gradually diminished and the garden eventually became derelict during the 1970s. The Applecross Trust began its restoration at the beginning of the present century, rescuing the old Potting Shed, repairing the walls and returning the garden to productive use. Its surviving fruit trees now share the space with herbaceous borders, vegetables, herbs and medicinal plants, while produce grown only for the Big House in the past can today appear upon an ordinary visitor’s plate.

We follow the central path towards the restaurant, where a reserved table is waiting. If the Applecross weather is behaving itself, we may abandon that table in favour of one outside, eating among the flowers while listening to birdsong and the hum of bees. When the weather becomes rather more energetic, we retreat into the restored Potting Shed, where the glazed dining area overlooks the garden and a wood-burning stove adds warmth and atmosphere during the cooler shoulder months. The menu is not based upon conventional pub grub. Garden produce, local venison, lamb and seafood can all feature, while the display of homemade cakes presents a separate challenge to anybody who has already ordered more lunch than strictly necessary.

That distinction usually decides whether I bring guests here or continue towards the Applecross Inn. If they want a lively Highland pub and familiar favourites, the Inn may be the natural choice. When they have expressed an interest in local ingredients, quieter surroundings and food that feels connected to the place in which it is served, I reserve a table at the Walled Garden. Lunch becomes part of a much wider experience that begins among the deer and Highland cattle, continues through the stubborn wooden gate and ends with a walk among flowers, fruit trees and vegetables once grown for the neighbouring house. This is not merely somewhere to eat. It is somewhere to slow down, experience and enjoy.

To learn more, book one of our North Coast Explorer private tours.