A bothy beyond the bog

I first walked to Strabeg Bothy on a hot summer’s day with three border collies, following the strath inland from the southern end of Loch Eriboll. At around a mile and a half each way, it offers a chance to spend a couple of hours among dramatic Highland scenery without committing to a full day in the hills, although the relatively flat route has a remarkable capacity for holding water. Waterproof boots are worth their place here even in summer, because the distance and straightforward route can give a rather misleading impression of what you will encounter underfoot.

Just before reaching the bothy, we had to cross a burn that was low enough to present little difficulty that day, but it is a crossing I would assess rather than assume will always be manageable. Rain can change these watercourses quickly, and an easy outward crossing provides no guarantee of an equally easy return if the weather deteriorates. Beyond it stands a substantial two-storey stone cottage, built in 1894 for an estate shepherd and now maintained by the Mountain Bothies Association, giving walkers somewhere to shelter in a building that once served as somebody’s home.

For anyone unfamiliar with bothies, Strabeg provides an introduction within reach of the road while still feeling removed from it. You can stay overnight without charge, provided you bring what you need and follow the Bothy Code, but the open door leads to basic shelter rather than accommodation prepared for your arrival. There are no beds, electricity or running water, so an overnight stay requires more thought than simply deciding that the setting is too lovely to leave. Personally, I am happy to admire the cottage, have something to eat and enjoy the walk back, knowing that a hot shower awaits elsewhere.

Continuing farther up Strathbeg takes you into a different sort of undertaking, as the estate track eventually runs out and the ground towards Loch Dionard beneath Foinaven becomes trackless. Exploring that country requires navigation skills, suitable equipment and enough experience to judge both the conditions and the considerable return journey, rather than treating it as a casual extension of the walk. For most visitors I would suggest making the bothy the destination, allowing time to appreciate its setting before returning by the route they know. In the audio blogcast, we look more closely at the shelter and the experience of visiting a bothy, although I make no promise of persuading myself to exchange that hot shower for a night here.

To learn more, listen to the blogcast or book one of our North Coast Explorer private tours.