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I don’t play golf, but I’d choose Durness

Coastal fairways at Durness overlooking a sandy bay and dunes beneath a partly cloudy sky

There are 27 golf courses within the area we explore in the North Highlands, and I suspect that surprises quite a few visitors. Royal Dornoch is the name golfers are most likely to recognise, but the one that most appeals to me is Durness. I should explain that I do not play, so this recommendation has very little to do with the quality of the greens. The course looks across Balnakeil Bay towards the sandy beach, ruined church and open sea, which seems an excellent setting for an afternoon, whatever happens to the ball.

Of course, the weather might have something to say about that. On an exposed northern headland, wind can turn the apparently straightforward business of hitting a stationary object into something considerably less predictable. Durness has nine holes, but anybody expecting a gentle little outing should consider the finish, where a shot must cross an inlet of the sea. It looks to me more challenging than Dornoch, although I would leave that judgement to somebody who knows what they are talking about. If I did play and the weather became too miserable, I could simply pull up a chair and enjoy the view.

Brora offers another complication, because its links have long been shared with grazing sheep and cattle, with electric fences protecting the greens. Golfers may have travelled a considerable distance for their round, but the animals have a perfectly reasonable interest in the same ground, which is to eat. The arrangement is not without disagreement over grazing rights, but it makes a memorable encounter for a visitor. A Highland golf course can also be part of somebody’s working landscape.

Then there are the courses near the local graveyard, which I occasionally explain to guests as a convenient arrangement for anybody who expires during a round: at least there is not far to wheel them. I may never understand all the etiquette surrounding golf, but its northern settings give me plenty to appreciate. In the audio blogcast, we discover how golf helped transform Dornoch’s fortunes, why a duchess who found the game uninteresting helped secure its Royal title, and how its visitors bring work to people like me without requiring us to pick up a club.

To learn more, listen to the blogcast or book one of our North Coast Explorer private tours.

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