Salmon fishing on the Naver and Helmsdale

When we stop beside the River Naver or the River Helmsdale, there is sometimes an angler standing waist-deep in the water, working a fly across the current with a movement that appears almost effortless. We pause to watch, particularly when somebody is playing a fish, and I invite my guests to decide whether the quarry is salmon or trout. My entirely unscientific method is to inspect the vehicle parked nearby. If it is a Range Rover, they are fishing for salmon. If it is a Kia, they are probably after trout.

Behind the joke lies one of the most exclusive sporting traditions in the North Highlands. Both rivers are fed by large inland lochs, helping to maintain their flows during periods when smaller rivers may become difficult to fish. Their waters are divided into privately controlled beats, with anglers moving between named pools under the guidance of ghillies who understand every current, obstruction and likely resting place. The Helmsdale has approximately 21 miles of fly-fishing water divided into rotating beats, while the Naver travels a similar distance from Loch Naver to the sea and contains more than 80 named pools.

Today, much of this fishing operates under strict catch-and-release rules. Wild Atlantic salmon populations have declined, and returning a carefully handled fish gives it the opportunity to continue upstream and spawn. This has also produced one of my favourite, although entirely unverified, riverside stories. An unscrupulous angler supposedly carried a painted wooden salmon in his fishing bag, concealed the real fish and appeared to release the imitation while a distant ghillie watched through binoculars. The wooden fish remained attached to a line so that it could be recovered when nobody was looking. Whether anybody ever attempted it is another matter, but it is an excellent story.

Fishing these rivers can cost from hundreds to several thousand pounds for a rod during the week, while a prime-season estate package may reach five figures. Availability is limited, catches are never guaranteed and bookings are usually arranged directly through estates, sporting agents, local hotels or specialist fishing contacts. The Helmsdale also possesses a documented royal association, having been fished by members of the Royal Family, including King Charles. For most visitors, however, simply watching an angler working one of these beautiful rivers provides a memorable glimpse into a private Highland world.

To learn more, book one of our North Coast Explorer private tours.