Smoo Cave: the waterfall beneath the road

Explaining the name Smoo to guests usually brings a smile once we arrive at its probable origin in the Old Norse smuga, meaning a cave or opening. Somebody generally follows the thought through and asks whether we are therefore visiting “Cave Cave”, which is an entertaining introduction to a place whose Norse name has survived into the modern visitor itinerary. The people who named it had no need of interpretation panels to appreciate the enormous opening in the coastline, although I recommend reading the ones beside the western approach before going down. There is little explanation inside, where the scale of the cavern and the sound of water tend to occupy our attention anyway.

What makes Smoo unusual is that the sea and freshwater have worked on the limestone from different directions, creating a cave whose entrance gives little indication of what waits farther in. Waves enlarged the outer chamber by exploiting weaknesses in the rock, while mildly acidic water filtering down from above gradually dissolved passages within it. The Allt Smoo now drops approximately 25 metres through the roof of the waterfall chamber, where after heavy rain the peat-stained water can become a roaring brown column that makes conversation rather difficult. Arrive during a dry spell and you may find a much quieter performance, so the visit can feel quite different according to what the weather has been doing.

Getting down to see it deserves a little attention of its own, because although paths descend from both sides of the inlet, neither offers an entirely regular flight of steps. The eastern route is longer and generally gentler, while the shorter western approach can demand some surprisingly deep steps, particularly awkward if the surface is wet. Once below, a footbridge leads towards the waterfall chamber, giving us the part of the visit I most want guests to experience without having to pay for an excursion. A seasonal trip by small inflatable boat offers access farther into the system when conditions permit, but I rarely recommend it on our tours because I think the free walk already delivers the most dramatic encounter.

I put rather more emphasis on choosing our arrival time, usually aiming for around four o’clock in the hope that the busiest period has passed. A coach can deliver 30 or 40 visitors together, and with conversations amplified by the cavern, the narrow approach to the waterfall can begin to feel like the queue for popcorn at a cinema. I would rather give guests a chance to hear the water and appreciate the space, before introducing the human stories associated with it, from early occupation and Sir Walter Scott’s visit to tales of murder, supernatural creatures and illicit whisky. We explore those in the audio blogcast, leaving the cave itself to make the first impression. My remaining practical suggestion is less romantic, but worth remembering before descending: unless the need is urgent, I would choose somewhere else for the public toilets.

To learn more, listen to the blogcast or book one of our North Coast Explorer private tours.