Dornoch: a pleasure even without the golf

Dornoch is, to my mind, the prettiest small town on the North Coast 500. Whatever the month or time of day, it always seems well presented, but catch it in the evening sunshine of a summer’s day and the honey-coloured stone of its old buildings positively glows. Some have roses around their doorways, which makes the welcome seem even more cheerful. It is somewhere I would happily encourage you to spend a little time, and I say that as someone entirely unmoved by its principal claim to international fame.

Golf brings visitors from around the world, but you can enjoy Dornoch perfectly well without knowing what to do with a nine iron. The cathedral is small, beautifully proportioned and well worth exploring inside as well as admiring from the street. Across the road stands the old castle, now a hotel, and both buildings have articles of their own in 'People and Places'. The castle also supplies my preferred setting for an evening in town. Its cellar bar has a good atmosphere, and a pizza there would suit me very nicely.

Surf and Turf is another of my favourite places to eat, while Luigi provides another option for dinner. There are cafés for a daytime stop, a bookshop to browse and everyday shops that make a longer stay practical. Beyond the centre, a lovely sandy beach offers room for a walk, while a bench overlooking the golf course supplies entertainment without requiring you to pay for a round.

Staying here can be expensive. In my experience, a night at one of the more exclusive hotels can reach £400, so check prices before becoming too attached to the idea. You can also visit for a few hours and stay for supper without committing to a luxury overnight stay. Looking around today, you might assume Dornoch has always been this fortunate, yet earlier travellers described somewhere desolate and partly ruined. In the blogcast, we uncover the investment that improved its appearance and how golf became so important to its fortunes.

To learn more, listen to the blogcast or book one of our North Coast Explorer private tours.