Fortrose and Rosemarkie: worth leaving the route for

The official North Coast 500 route is a useful spine from which to explore, and Fortrose and Rosemarkie are two places I think deserve a diversion. They sit along the Black Isle coast on the road towards Cromarty, although getting through Fortrose can require some patience. I prefer early morning or evening, when negotiating its narrow main street and parked cars is less likely to occupy quite so much of my attention.

Once you’ve left the car, Fortrose Cathedral offers a welcome change of pace. Its red sandstone remains stand within a green surrounded by houses, with enough surviving to help you begin imagining the building that once occupied the space between them. Fortrose is also the turning point for Chanonry Point, where bottlenose dolphins sometimes feed remarkably close to shore. A rising tide can improve your chances, particularly in summer, but parking is limited and seasonal charges apply. It deserves some planning, and an article of its own.

A little farther along the coast, Rosemarkie has a pretty, sheltered sandy beach and a museum that made a considerable impression on me during a recent visit. I’ve seen plenty of Pictish stones, but the great carved cross-slab in Groam House Museum is imposing even in its incomplete state. More than eight feet tall, it retains a remarkable amount of detail after more than twelve centuries. The staff were friendly, knowledgeable and generous with their time, and there’s no admission charge. Even a brief visit gives you a wonderful introduction to a place whose importance reaches well beyond its present size.

Afterwards, it’s a short walk down to the shore, where I was quite content to sit on the sea wall with the pamphlets I’d bought. If you want a longer walk, Fairy Glen follows a burn through woodland to two waterfalls, although parts of the path are steep, uneven and slippery. The Plough Inn, a short stroll from the beach, offers another reason to linger, with its distinctive leaning gable and cosy wood-lined bar. Between the cathedral, museum, shore and glen, there’s plenty to justify leaving the main route. In the blogcast, we’ll explore the extraordinary survival of Rosemarkie’s great carved stone, discovered in the floor of the old church before it was demolished and replaced.

To learn more, listen to the blogcast or book one of our North Coast Explorer private tours.