John O' Groats: look beyond the car park

Before arriving at John O' Groats, I usually advise guests to prepare themselves for disappointment. Its name carries enormous expectations, yet the first thing most people encounter is an enormous car park surrounded by cafes, shops and other small visitor businesses. There is no grand monument waiting at the end of the road, while the famous signpost stands beside a harbour from which the passenger ferry to Orkney no longer sails. Compared with the size of its reputation, John O' Groats can feel surprisingly modest.

That modesty is also part of its appeal. Unlike Land's End, there is no admission charge surrounding the famous view and nobody asks for payment before you can photograph the signpost. The businesses are predominantly independent, locally owned and run by people who live in the area, rather than national franchises supported by large corporate budgets. They may sometimes appear less polished than the outlets found at larger attractions, but the money spent here supports the community. The car park contribution also helps fund local improvements rather than disappearing into a distant company.

There is more to do than take a photograph and leave. John O' Groats Brewery occupies the Last House and contains a shop, brewery and intimate tasting room within its old stone walls. It is a good place to buy locally produced gifts, enjoy a beer and perhaps meet somebody from the village. Nearby, 8 Doors Distillery offers whisky tours and a lounge, while cafes provide everything from coffee and cake to a more substantial meal. Families will also find a play area where children can release some energy after spending too long confined inside a car.

The harbour marks the beginning of a coastal path leading east towards Robert's Haven, Sannick Bay, Duncansby Head and, for those prepared to continue, the great sea stacks beyond. A gentler surfaced path heads west towards John O' Groats Mill, which has its own story and visitor experience. You may still decide that five minutes beside the signpost, a toilet stop and a hot drink are enough, but it would be unfair to judge the village entirely by its car park. John O' Groats is not sophisticated, dramatic or even particularly beautiful at first sight, yet look beyond the tarmac and it offers local enterprise, coastal scenery and a little something for almost everyone. Come this far north and you really should stop. Just prepare to be underwhelmed.

To learn more, listen to the blogcast or book one of our North Coast Explorer private tours.