Kinlochbervie is worth the detour

Kinlochbervie is often overlooked by travellers following the west coast of the North Coast 500. At Rhiconich, the route continues north towards Durness while the B801 turns away towards the Atlantic. It is an easy junction to pass, but that would be a terrible shame. The road to Kinlochbervie runs through a wonderful landscape of exposed rock, scattered lochs and distant mountains before descending towards Loch Inchard. Even before you reach the village, the diversion begins to justify itself.

Kinlochbervie is not a polished tourist village. It is a working fishing port, and that is an important part of its character. Fishing expanded rapidly here after the Second World War, when boats working the northwestern grounds began landing their catches at Loch Clash. The modern harbour at Loch Bervie replaced it during the 1970s, and by the middle of the following decade Kinlochbervie had become one of Scotland's three leading whitefish ports. The large harbour buildings and fish lorries may surprise visitors expecting another picturesque Highland settlement, but they tell the story of a remote community that seized an opportunity and built an industry.

The road continues beyond the harbour into a scattered crofting landscape containing some of the finest beaches in north west Scotland. Oldshoremore, Polin and Sheigra can all be reached with comparatively little walking. Sandwood Bay demands considerably more effort. The path begins at Blairmore and crosses about four miles of open moorland before reaching a broad sweep of sand backed by dunes, a freshwater loch and high sea cliffs. Remember that the four-mile walk has to be repeated on the way back.

Even if you are not hunting for beaches, Kinlochbervie remains worth the diversion. You can visit the old harbour at Loch Clash, see the Thomas Telford church built in 1829, watch the activity around the modern fishing port or simply enjoy a road that feels increasingly removed from the traffic passing along the NC500. Kinlochbervie does not offer manufactured Highland prettiness. It offers something better: a dramatic journey, a working community and a coastline that rewards anyone prepared to leave the main road.

To learn more, book one of our North Coast Explorer private tours.