The North Coast 500 in Winter

Travelling the North Coast 500 during December, January or February is a very different experience from driving it in summer, and the greatest difference is daylight. Around the winter solstice, the sun rises at approximately nine in the morning and sets shortly after half past three, leaving barely six and a half hours in which to explore. Many visitor attractions will be closed, independent accommodation may be difficult to find, and cafés or restaurants that appear on a map may not reopen until spring. Winter touring therefore requires more planning, fewer assumptions and a considerably less ambitious daily itinerary.

The weather is unpredictable, although rain should be expected, particularly on the west coast. Rainfall varies considerably across the region and can exceed 2,000 millimetres, or approximately 79 inches, each year in exposed or mountainous areas. That does not mean it will rain continuously, but it does mean that paths, fields and clifftop walks are likely to be wet, muddy or boggy. Proper walking boots with grippy soles are essential if you intend to leave the roadside, even for an apparently simple walk to places such as the Duncansby Stacks. A walking pole is useful for testing puddles and burns, while anyone venturing farther should tell somebody where they are going and remain conscious of the approaching darkness.

Snow is less common at coastal level than many visitors imagine, but when it does arrive it can cause serious disruption. Primary roads receive priority treatment, while minor rural roads may be treated only when resources permit, so exposed routes such as the Bealach na Bà or the Wee Mad Road should not be attempted simply because they appear on an itinerary. Check the forecast and road conditions before leaving, keep the screenwash filled, and carry warm clothing, food, water, a torch and a charged telephone. If snow or ice is forecast and your vehicle lacks suitable tyres or equipment, changing the route is considerably more sensible than discovering the limitations of a hire car on a remote single-track road.

Winter nevertheless offers rewards that summer cannot reproduce. Hotels can be dramatically cheaper, the roads are wonderfully quiet, and the low sun gives much of the day the golden quality of a prolonged sunset. Rainbows appear against dark skies, brief sunsets can be spectacular, and an early frost can make the rocks and water of the North West Highlands Geopark shimmer in the morning light. You do not even need to rise at the crack of sparrows, because between eight and ten o’clock the day is only just beginning. Local people may also have more time to stop and talk once the summer rush has passed, allowing winter visitors to encounter a quieter landscape and a more relaxed side of Highland life.

To learn more, book one of our North Coast Explorer private tours.