Places along the North Coast

Looking up at the John O'Groats signpost from below

John O' Groats: look beyond the car park

John O' Groats has one of the biggest names in British tourism, but first impressions can be brutally underwhelming. Look beyond the tarmac, however, and you will find local beer, whisky, coastal walks and considerably more than a signpost.

Aerial view of a coastal village and green fields behind a broad sandy beach, with a thin line of surf in the blue-green sea.

Dunnet: between the dunes and the sea

At Dunnet’s Dwarwick Pier, waves roll past your picnic towards the sand, where passengers from the Royal Yacht Britannia once came ashore.

Thurso church and terraced flower beds beneath a blue sky with wispy clouds.

Thurso is worth a couple of days!

Heritage, some good walks and a friendly visitor centre make Thurso more interesting than the old two-penny guide, which was full of adverts for hats, scones and trinkets, might have suggested.

Historic map of Farr and Clerkhill showing Betty Hill, land boundaries, roads and surrounding hills

Bettyhill: what's in a name?

A cheeky insult aimed at the Countess of Sutherland seemed to explain Bettyhill’s name beautifully. I believed it, until an old estate map gave me a problem.

Visitor photographing Torrisdale’s sandy beach and winding tidal channel from a grassy coastal viewpoint.

The guidebook which got Bettyhill wrong?

An old motoring guide suggests giving Bettyhill a miss unless you shoot or fish. I visit almost every week, and I think it overlooks rather a lot.

Aerial view of a bridge and curving causeway crossing blue-green tidal water and exposed sandbanks towards wooded hills.

Tongue, across the Kyle and a little farther

From Coldbackie to Talmine, this small section of the north coast provides beaches, mountains, amazing views and some folklore too.

Black-and-white view of two surfaced submarines side by side, with naval crews on deck and a rugged coastline in the background.

The day the U-Boats came to Loch Eriboll

For twelve extraordinary days in May 1945, surrendered German submarines pass through Loch Eriboll. Fifteen arrive together, ammunition and explosives are thrown overboard, and armed British sailors take control. Then the U-boats disappear, leaving one of the NC 500's most remarkable stories hidden beneath apparently empty water.

Visitor in a red jacket sitting beside the arched window of a ruined coastal church, overlooking a beach at dusk.

Durness, Balnakiel and the effect of a holiday

A sunset beside Durness’s ruined church began a relationship that helped change our lives. Give this corner of the Highlands more than a passing glance.